Rome Day 4

Our fourth full day in Rome began early.   Not wanting to wait in the long security lines at St. Peter's yesterday we decided to get up and out early enough to get in line (or so we thought) before the opening time of 7AM.  We were very pleased (and a little nervous) to find no one in line.  In fact, there weren't any cars in front of the barricades and only a small group of people came into view walking to the very center of the circle facing the basilica.  We thought it was a tour group but quickly realized this was not a typical tourist group.  It was a group of people who were with two priests who were reciting things I did not recognize in Latin and the group would respond.  We had come to be with a group performing a religious walk.  Now I have no problem with joining in silently, but I was a little uncomfortable because I didn't want to intrude or detract from their devotional.  That feeling only held me back for a little bit until I realized that they were head toward the entrance and I saw many nuns and priest heading there as well.

We took the opportunity and went through the security check quickly and followed the crowd to the steps of the Basilica.  We had made it to the main gate and it was only 6:45AM and the sun was just coming up from the east.  We all stood on the porch and watched.  More priests and nuns came.  At one point we were surprised to hear some very definite American speak coming from a group of young priests.  What a thrill it must be for them to be priests here at the Vatican.   A few more tourists joined in and at exactly 7:00AM the bells rang and the big gates were opened.  

There was no pushing or shoving or jockeying for position, everyone was quiet and reverent because most of them were here for mass.  As we entered into the Basilica I realized that the young priests (and some older ones) were there to give mass to certain groups of people (families or traveling friends) by appointment.  The priests went into a back room and came back dressed in the lacy white priestly robe and had an altar boy with them and another assistant who was carrying the wafers and other things needed for the mass.  The priests would then be followed by a group (sometimes only one individual) and they would go to their assigned chapel part of the Basilica and begin the ceremony.  It was fascinating to watch.  I was touched by the devotion of these people.  I watched one older man trying to keep up with the quick walking priest;  he had both hands clasped together and his face radiated with a smile as he went past me.  Several older women followed behind.  He was so excited to be there.  

The expanse of the place was overwhelming.  It was huge.  It must be experienced to understand.  The artistry actually deceives you as you look around because everything was made to seem in harmony and not out of place.  Things that appear large and are close to you are made not to seem so big by the images above them being made larger.  (Did that make sense?)  

We walked around quite by ourselves for a time and then others began making their way but it wasn't crowded at all.  Our last stop was to see the Pieta which is one of the things I told Ed I had to see before I died.  (Sistine Chapel, the David and Chartres Cathedral are the others so after we stop in Florence in a couple of days I could probably go anytime.)

We returned back to the hotel and rested until Roger and Joyce (Ed's brother-in-law and sister) joined us.  They were pretty tired but they wanted to get some some viewing in before they rested so we walked to the Spanish Steps and then to the Pantheon.  This building is so famous for a reason.  It is amazing and very humbling to be inside.  What a thrill to be able to be here. 

We needed some food then so we stopped for pizza and when we came out it was raining so we made our way back to the hotel soaking wet.  (Ed and I have carried our umbrellas every day this week and it never rained on us.  Did we have them today?  No.....)

We rested and then we caught a cab to show them the San Clemente Church.  After we told them about it they wanted to see it so we went back.  I'm happy because I had forgotten to get a picture of it when we were there before.  Now I have one to show.  

After that we took another cab ride to the Santa Marie in Trastevere church across the river. 
It was a beautiful church, the first dedicated to Mary, and there was a mass in progress as we went inside.  There were many devotees there participating and I loved listening to the organ music for the remainder of the mass.  I got some good photos inside.

Joyce had been told by someone she met that the best Italian food could be found at a little restaurant called Augusto.  We had an address and it wasn't far from the church but it was so difficult to find.  Finally, ready to give up a young girl and boy opened a door I was standing in front of and I just blurted out, "Do you speak English?"  They both said yes and my next question was, "Do you live around here?"  He said no but said she did.  Come to find out she is a student here and is from Portland, ORE!!!  Anyway, she told us where to go to find this place and it turned out we were very close.  Unfortunately they didn't open until 8PM and it was 7PM and we were hungry and tired so we ate at a place right next to it.  We watched as the locals lined up to get inside.  It is definitely the place to eat.  There is no menu, just whatever the 3 Italian grandmas decide to make that day.  The best kind of places.  

We caught a cab back to the Via Veneto area and decided to stop for some gelato and then to walk back to the hotel.  Another wonderful day in Rome! 

St. Peter's Church in Rome at 6:30AM.  Too close to see the dome but it is beautiful still.

Looking eastward from the porch of St. Peter's Church at 6:40AM.

I can't figure out how to rotate the photos for the blog, but it you look sideways you can see where they say Peter is buried.

The Pieta

The Pantheon outside

The Pantheon inside

Santa Maria in Trastevere church outside

Santa Maria in Trastevere church ceiling motif

San Clemente Church.  You have to walk down from street level to get in to the 12th century church (shown below) and then walk down further to the 800 century church and descend even further to the 100-200 year Mithrian church.  It is fascinating.